Thursday, June 28, 2007

"And still the questions continued..."

We Pakistani NGO visitors are an inquisitive bunch and can’t seem to stop asking questions. I got the feeling that sometimes our hosts were a bit tired of answering questions—one of them even said, “I’ve never hosted a group like this ever before”! At the same time they liked that we had so many questions because it showed our commitment to thoroughly understand the project and implement it properly. Or, as properly as one can implement an experimental pilot.

Unfortunately, there’s always a risk when trying to replicate successful projects. Its not just project design that guarantees success, its many, many other factors, especially the most important one of all; the human factor. It sounds cliché but that’s the only phrase that adequately describes what guarantees whether a project fails or succeeds. If a group of people cannot adapt themselves or a project to achieve desired results, no matter how much work is put into it or even money, it won’t succeed. That’s why development organizations spend so much time having field staff conduct village meetings, workshops and just general motivation. You can only help those who are willing to be helped.

I digress…Bangladesh adventures continued the next day as we spent an inordinate amount of time travelling through northern parts of Bangladesh. We first went to observe a Village Organization (VO) meeting of graduated members of the TUP programme. Many of these women are now BRAC microfinance clients but many are not. They are not expected to be, not everyone can be an entrepreneur and not everyone is willing to risk their [now] stable livelihood. These women are generally very impressive; I met an 80-year-old woman who had been part of the TUP project. I thought that her age alone would have precluded her but as it turns out she was quite willing and able to participate. She started out with livestock and now also has land that she cultivates and to top it off, she’s a spiritual healer!

After we left the meeting, we headed off to [yet another] BRAC branch office where we learnt about their legal aid project. Rural communities don’t have access to legal advice regarding various issues that they face and BRAC trains staff in basic legal advice that they can help villagers sort out or their problems or at least understand them better. They also provide third party arbitration in the case of disputes. If the legal aid programme officers cannot help out, then a professional team of lawyers is present at BRAC to provide further help.

After the legal aid clinic and our lunch break we saw the final support service that the TUP project offers to its members. And its by far the best one, the Village Poverty Reduction Committee [or as its called in Bangla: Gram Daridron Bimochon Committee—GDBC]. The GDBC is a committee made up of local community members who are activists within their community; the group of people who stand up for their community and its rights and who aid the poorer members of their village. In short, the socially responsible community members. Of course, social responsibility tends to be a lot easier when you have money to spread around without worrying that your family will go hungry without the money that you just gave away and so its not unexpected that most GDBC members are the elite of their community. They tend also to be educated or hold a steady job or have large portions of agricultural land.

The point of the GDBC is to be a direct support to the TUP beneficiaries in whatever way they need it. No matter how well spread out BRAC is, BRAC staff cannot be with every TUP member 24/7 and problems occur anytime, anywhere. The GDBC is the first group that TUP members can turn to since they are already living in the same community. It’s also a way of involving the elite members of a community rather than usurping their positions as caretakers of their community.
GDBC’s have the following objectives:
• Ensuring social security
• Ensuring asset security
• Ensuring a suitable working environment (social acceptance)
GDBC’s also have the following specific responsibilities:
1. Provide tin roof [for shed of livestock/poultry] for all TUP members
2. Ensure safe drinking water
3. Ensure sanitation
4. Ensure health care treatment
5. Ensure plantation—2 plants for each household
6. Ensure admission for all school-age children & ensure admittance
7. Ensure family planning availability/awareness
8. Ensure immunization for all children aged 0-5 years
9. Ensure tetanus toxoid (T.T.) vaccine to all women aged 15-45 years
10. Ensure government & non-government facilities through community mobilization

We got to see a GDBC meeting in action—they meet once a month to discuss the general status of the TUP enterprises in their village, to follow up on problems highlighted at previous meetings and to ask if the TUP members currently have any new problems that they need aid for. It is important to understand that BRAC does not expect GDBC members to pay out of their pocket for all unforeseen circumstances that a TUP beneficiary may face. The GDBC is expected to help by motivating the entire community to come to the aid of one of their own rather than immediately expecting help from BRAC [who will give it if no alternative can be found]. It’s good for BRAC because they end up conserving their resources but, more importantly, it is teaching a community about self-governance and organisation so that they can eventually help not only the ultra-poor in their village but also for other needs (e.g. organising sanitation for everyone rather than waiting for an NGO to come around and help out). In some ways, the GDBC is as important a component of the BRAC TUP programme as the enterprise itself because it has equally far-reaching consequences. I think this new wave of participation and community organizations [in development work] is here to stay rather than simply a fad because it works in reality rather than just theory. It gives a new meaning to grassroots activism in a way that is fresh and yet is also plain common sense. After all a project where you actually get to decide what you need [rather than the ‘perceived’ need] is bound to be way more successful.

Monday, June 4, 2007

Jugnoo

I do apologise for the delayed posts, being away for two weeks from work does not help to decrease the workload, quite the opposite.

The adventures in northern Bangladesh continue…

On our second day in Rangpur was, if possible, even more interesting than the first. We headed off bright and early to a village where a participatory rural appraisal (PRA) was being held. A PRA is one of the most popular and successful tools used by development practitioners in surveying new locations and getting a feel for the pressing issues that locals face. Its development agencies realising that local participation and guidance is necessary for long-term success of development. Anyways, the PRA is an essential component of the TUP programme as it is the first step to selecting who the ultra-poor really are. And we had the opportunity to watch a particularly good one. The facilitator was a young Bengali man who was very energetic and very much attuned to the crowd. The PRA began with a mapping of the village. First the major landmarks and ‘roads’ of the village are mapped out, followed by the listing of all the households in the village. After the entire village had been mapped out, the facilitator then moved onto wealth ranking. He started by selecting two households randomly and asking people which one was better off. He also asked them to define what they meant by being better off—i.e. how was one better off? This process would continue till 4 to 6 rankings of wealth were established. These rankings are important because not all development projects are meant for entire villages, the TUP project is one of them; it is targeting the destitute members of the village. Similarly micro finance generally targets the middle/upper class of a village.

PRAs are extremely effective forms of information gathering because they are heavily invested in a participatory approach, forcing the entire village to agree on answers making it difficult for villagers to hide the truth. Let me illustrate; if you decide to garner information by doing surveys on a household level, then there is no checking of answers, there really is no way to verify the truth. On the other hand, in a PRA everyone is sitting together and consensus has to be achieved. Of course, hypothetically, an entire village could be so unified that they could mislead you collectively but that’s statistically improbable and highly difficult to achieve. I know this makes it sound as if I’m calling all villagers/underdeveloped communities liars, I’m not, I’m just saying that people don’t share information especially the underprivileged because of the risk of exploitation. I could simply be posing as a NGO worker sympathetic to their plight when in actuality I am a ruthless land grabber.

Anyways, I digress. Once the PRA was over, we moved on to our next visit. We were now moving away from the direct component of the TUP project to the support services involved. Support services are an essential component of such a project because simply providing assets to the ultra-poor is not enough, they must also be given a chance to let their business flourish and start making a profit so that, in turn, they can start inching their way out of poverty. To do this, one needs to address the many other issues that destitute groups face. For example, if they have no income to provide daily meals to their household, how will they bear the cost of a new enterprise (e.g. feed for livestock, fertilizer for cultivation)? So BRAC provides them with a subsistence allowance, which is not a huge amount of money, but it's a cushion for those who have nothing. They don’t have to use all of the allowance; the money can start off their savings. It is essential to emphasize the importance of savings, a concept that by default cannot exist amongst the very poor (if you barely have enough money to feed yourself, where is the savings going to come from) but is ironically probably the most necessary form of insurance that the poor need to have to prevent crippling debts in the face of unexpected losses.

These are somewhat intangible support services but BRAC also uses of many of its regular services as part of the TUP project. It’s an efficient manner of doing things because there is no point in replicating programmes, which would waste valuable resources and manpower. This includes their health volunteer project. BRAC trains women as health program organizers (these are BRAC employees) who are responsible for various villages. They visit each village regularly to raise awareness about specific health issues and the care and prevention of these matters and are also responsible for community health volunteers. Each village has one woman who has been trained in basic health care, who looks after most of the village’s primary health care. It’s not a new concept or even one confined to Bangladesh, many developing countries have similar projects where cadres of health workers are deployed by NGOs and health ministries as the first level of health care for rural communities. In turn, these workers train local community members to fulfil most of their village’s basic health needs sparing them the need to go to clinics/hospitals for every small issue and, hence, saving them money and time. Such systems also allow for better health awareness in general and safer practices (a community health volunteer tends to be trained in safe delivery practices and is also trained to recognise his/her own limitations and refer patients to a physician when necessary). Decentralising systems such as health and education is necessary for better success in reaching everyone.

While we visited with a health program organizer, we also happened to pass a BRAC social awareness/advocacy session held for rural village women. These are weekly sessions where the women gather in a small group and a BRAC employee discusses various social/legal issues with them raising their awareness about these problems and their rights in such cases. This sort of short information talks occur at many stages in BRAC projects, to ensure that people are becoming well informed and that the message gets through.

After this we headed on to BRAC’s branch office where we lunched and got to see various projects that they run from the branch office, which is located close to many villages and is easily accessible [there are branch offices all over the place ensuring that villagers an get to them easily enough]. Here, there is a government doctor who works on an honorarium basis for a few hours each week after his hours at the government clinics are over and provides the necessary professional care that health program organizers and volunteers simply cannot do.

Also, we got to briefly see the training that TUP members are provided when they first join the project. All new members in an area are divided into their various types of business and are given trainings in these groups. The training itself is for three days and covers the care and management of their asset.

I’m fast coming to the conclusion that BRAC spends a lot of money on its infrastructure, which is great because they’re making sure everyone can get to them. It helps that they are so huge and that they have oodles of money but still, it would be great if other NGOs could do stuff in this manner rather than ferrying field staff back and forth. It would be even better if governments came to this realization and set up services in such a broad manner.

After all this heavy thinking and extensive travelling, our hosts decided that we deserved a break and took us sightseeing to a colonial mansion which has been converted into a museum. On the way to the Zamindar House (Note: zamindar means landowner and tends to refer to feudal landlords, which is an interesting name to give to one’s house! And as a random other note, zamindar is pronounced jamindar by Bengalis who seem incapable of saying “z”), we had a bizarre experience that I still can’t quite believe. We were passing over a stretch of road that was constructed so badly that while it seemed to be perfectly flat and smooth seemed to move the car in the same manner as a boat rolls over the waves! Anyways, the house was beautiful though not so well kept. It had the most beautiful high ceilings with stained glass windows—the old type with thick bubbly glass of translucent jewel tones. The museum objects did not hold much interest because there wasn’t much written up about them and they were rather monotonous which sounds awful coming from an art history major who wants to study it further but I am spoiled in museum settings!

That night, we also got to go see some Popular Theatre, a social programme of BRAC’s. I personally think there’s no project as good at creating awareness as theatre is. Its also great because it provides entertainment for local communities who don’t get it so often. BRAC’s theatre is performed by amateur troupes. The troupe we saw was fabulous even though I didn’t understand a word. But most of the time, language wasn’t much of a barrier—the acting was wonderful. They started off with a song, which apparently consisted of various social messages. The play was also based around social awareness themes but drawn from real life events that have taken place in the village. It was very cute and funny at times but of course had its serious moments. The popularity of the theatre was evident by the sheer numbers of people that attended. Its also telling that clearly there isn’t much in the way of formal entertainment for local communities but that’s unsurprising for any rural community around the world. I think this is also why the theatre is so successful because it manages to reach the maximum number of people.

And so, tired we went back to our rooms…

Tuesday, May 8, 2007

Unending fields of rice

Last night, after watching out the car windows for seemingly unending hours, we reached our destination in Rangpur; the BRAC Training & Resource Centre (BRAC-TARC). A huge facility for training BRAC staff [primarily field-based], the TARC is incredible. It has residential accommodation for 100 trainees [small children are allowed] along with additional guest rooms (for trainers and visitors like us) and training classrooms, dining hall etc. The trainings are free of cost as are the accommodations and related expenditures. At this time, 4-5 trainings are being conducted in the centre. What’s more incredible is that this is not the only facility of its kind—there are 22 TARC facilities across the country. It's the stuff of dreams for many NGOs and partially explains the high degree of loyalty that BRAC employees feel.

The morning was spent being briefed on the particulars of the TUP project. It began in 2002 in 3 districts [Rangpur is one of them] and has, so far, reached 100,000 beneficiaries (all women). They plan to reach 200,000 more beneficiaries in the next 4 years and have expanded the number of districts that they plan to cover to 42. It’s ambitious but do-able.

After lunch, we headed out to visit beneficiaries of this project in their homes. Bangladesh seems rather homogenous as a nation because of the profusion of paddy fields everywhere. Granted, they eat rice at every meal, its still amazing. Add to that they all speak the same language and are racially similar and it seems a fairly unchanging nation. The villages are interesting. In Pakistan, I am used to a village being a single cluster of houses with another village comprising of another cluster. In Bangladesh, each cluster is one part of a whole village. Therefore villages are larger, I couldn’t get an average figure but one of our hosts estimated that average size would be around 400 households, which is a large village by our standards. This function of clusters makes for interesting village design; clusters tend to be built within an area tall trees and bamboos with agricultural fields creating the separation between clusters.

The first village we went to was a mixed Hindu-Muslim community. Similar to parts of Sindh in Pakistan, the villagers were living in complete harmony and were very happy to interact with us. Pakistan is of course a pretty well known country in Bangladesh since it has only been 36 years since East Pakistan became Bangladesh. And Bengalis are pretty forgiving people—they quite like Pakistanis!

The visits were themselves very interesting. The women who have been given a start by this project have managed to be very successful in not only developing enterprises but also in uplifting themselves from such extreme poverty. Its also remarkable the degree of business acumen they display. One of the TUP members started out with 6 goats and ten hens. Through a combination of saving and selling assets (hens multiply rapidly and you can sell an asset as long as you have a replacement for it—i.e. after a goat has given birth, you retain the kid but sell an older goat), she bought first a rickshaw and then used her remaining savings as well as rent from the rickshaw to buy a cow. Her assets now include 5 goats [of which 3 are pregnant], a kid [she didn’t include the kid as a goat!], a cow, 25 hens and a rickshaw. The project allows them to save well and also to develop their enterprise appropriately so that they are benefiting from microfinance as the project intended. Some take loans for land cultivation, others buy land for a house or for new livestock, but the important thing is that they now have the capital and [perhaps, equally important] the confidence to take on such loans.

And so ended the day. I leave you with the advice of one of the senior members of our group: “Instead of getting up as if a scorpion has bitten you, ponder upon the dreams of the night before…”

839

And so the second day of the trip to Bangladesh began…

The first order of the day was a meeting at the BRAC headquarters in Dhaka. If you haven’t heard of BRAC and/or are interested in development practiced in a holistic manner [read: doing anything and everything], I suggest you visit the BRAC website at www.brac.net. BRAC is the biggest development organizations in the world and has the most comprehensive structure I have ever encountered. The development projects are funded primarily through BRAC commercial enterprises & microfinance—it’s an industry, to be honest. But an extremely well thought out and effective industry. Essentially it’s corporate social responsibility in reverse!

I am in Bangladesh for an exposure visit. BRAC has a project called: “Challenging the Frontiers of Poverty Reduction: Targeting the Ultra Poor” (CFPR-TUP) which the World Bank’s microfinance group, CGAP (Consultative Group to Assist the Poor) think is extremely effective and would like to pilot in Pakistan. If the two-year pilot is successful, the project will be scaled to a national level. My organisation is one of three NGOs to be selected to implement the pilot. Its exciting stuff, the idea of the programme is to target the absolutely underprivileged, those who are called “food-insecure” these days (it means exactly like it sounds). This group, the ultra-poor, is unable to even access mainstream development projects because they are so secluded and “un-empowered”. They are not clients of micro credit because they have no means to guarantee payback of even the smallest of loans.

What this project will do is provide a combination of grants, skills trainings, assets and other support services (e.g. health, legal aid) to lift the ultra-poor to a socio-economic level where they are able to develop their enterprises through the aid of traditional microfinance and take advantage of development programmes from which they have been overlooked. Its an interesting idea and, while it is still in its infancy, seems to be successful.

But I digress…before this orientation meeting started; the group took advantage of the opportunity of being on the 19th floor of the BRAC headquarters (it's a 20 story building—unbelievable—more unbelievable, its not the only one) and started snapping pictures of the view of Dhaka. The view itself is very picturesque because the building faces a lake and you see lots of greenery interspersed with lots of buildings. What stops you in your tracks is the view of an enormous slum in the middle of the lake. Rows upon rows of tin roofs closely packed together, the slum is a stark reminder that one is in a developing nation. There are only two visible means of access to the slum, a narrow road track and by boat across the lake (clearly the popular mode of transport considering the number of people using it).

Despite the presence of such slums, Dhaka is a clean city, there are no visible garbage heaps, nor is there much air pollution. The fact that a very large majority of vehicles (including buses and motor rickshaws) all run on CNG is responsible for the latter. CNG is perhaps the most sensible solution to air pollution, it is cleaner and also more economical. It’s not a permanent solution given the non-renewable factor but it's a start. I see it as giving time for renewable sources to become cheaper and more accessible. Of course, the cycle rickshaws (which to my eternal regret I did not get a chance to ride) are also a very important component of a clean environment. Inexpensive and everywhere, they are not a novelty like rides in New York, but rather a very essential part of transport in Bangladesh.

Anyways, while watching the rickshaws and other vehicles navigate the crowded roads of Dhaka, which turned into the narrow highway [the road is one lane on both sides—this is a highway?], I watched in wonder as the miles swept past but the people did not. I do not think there is a single stretch in this whole country that is not populated. After all the population density is 839 people per square kilometre! Bengalis have had to be very smart in making sure that they use up every inch of available land. And they have…throughout the route we saw endless paddy fields, interspersed with maize and other vegetables and [of all things] brick kilns a-plenty. And where there is too much water on the ground, they build their houses on stilts! An amazing resourceful people the Bengalis. Houses in rural areas, for those interested, are made of bamboo which grows everywhere (very strong and good bamboo) with corrugated tin roofs (a cheap material). Sometimes, tin is used for walls as well. I thought that tin was an awful material given how hot it would get in the summer inside such a house but it works out fine because villagers incorporate a false bamboo ceiling within the structures.

But, perhaps the most amazing structure and most visible sign of sophisticated development we saw in Bangladesh was still to come on our long trip to Rangpur; the Jamna River Bridge. It is the largest bridge in South Asia, 5 km long and one of the largest in the world. And phenomenal it is. The river itself is very, very wide (Pakistani rivers are pretty thin and non-navigable except in small boats) and putting a bridge across it is a big feat. We didn’t realise until later that no bridge [of any sort] had existed before on this stretch and people had to rely on ferries to get across. Imagine, the entire population on the northern banks was virtually cut off from the heart of the country until 1997. The northwest block of Bangladesh [therefore, unsurprisingly] is the poorest section of the country. Hence, it is the logical starting point for BRAC’s TUP project.

We also had the opportunity to visit one of BRAC’s seed farms on the way to Rangpur where they produce maize seed for the market. They also have fish hatcheries and sericulture (silk worms) at this institute. It was interesting despite the fact that we saw very little (it was night time when we reached the farm). What was great to see was that many of the employees were women—BRAC is very big on employing women and specially targeting females in all their projects.

I had been observing sophisticated development measures in Bangladesh the whole day and apart from the availability of electricity everywhere, I felt many other things (e.g. sophisticated road networks with large/broad highways for efficient goods transport) were missing. I don’t know whether this is a good or bad thing or what it indicates about Bangladesh as yet but it is an important statement, I feel, about the country’s development.

Saturday, April 21, 2007

Bangladesh! Day One

I think it will be best if I start jotting down my notes from a day to day basis of all I have seen in this fabulous country.

Day One:
Not much to say since most of the day was spent travelling but still...

After a not so long flight and a rather long wait at Immigration, we finally set foot in Dhaka! Of course, the moment we stepped out of the airport, what greeted us was a searing blast of humidity...but nonetheless, given the high levels of excitement of the group, we were all too preoccupied taking everything in to be even the slightest bit wilted by some trifling humidity. At first glance, Bangladesh is green and very very South Asian. The only thing that visually differentiates it from Pakistan are the cycle rickshaws and the Bangla writing everywhere. The buildings are plentiful and its much like any big city across the world, somewhat congested, somewhat poor, somewhat affluent etc etc

The people are very nice and thanks to Bollywood can follow Urdu quite a bit, something to be grateful for when you realise the scarcity of English language speakers in the area. I find myself quite impressed by how everything is written in the national language rather than English at all mainstream locations, it is to be wished that Pakistan would also step out of its colonial mindset on this front.

Anyway, that's really all for now. More exciting news as we proceed further into the actual exposure trip. Up next: travelling to Rangpur and seeing the BRAC head office

Tuesday, April 10, 2007

Gender, oh Gender

I'm always excited to see women running in elections. Not just the big positions, but also the smaller, lesser-known positions. I am a glass half-full kind of person when it comes to this. After all, not too long ago, the idea of suffrage was laughable and we've progressed [very rapidly] to the point that women everywhere, from all walks of life have the courage and the confidence to propel themselves to positions of power, positions of change. To me the change that is most striking is at the grassroots level--your local governance. Pakistan's provinces are divided into districts, into towns and into union councils. Each council has representation through a local. In the case of one of these, a colleague of my is the councillor for her neighbourhood. You may think that since this is a sort of side-job and not full time, it doesn't count for much but its there and she has the oppportunity to create change in her own home and among her peers in ways that women have been prevented from doing.

But its true that having women in greater positions of power, such as heads of state or presidents of large multinationals or even heads of universities is a big deal. Its the combination of both that will eventually grant women the sort of equality status [in terms of being recognised for having equal intellect and capability as men] that they seek. And we're not there yet, not even close.

I recently read an article from The Guardian by Madeline Bunting which had several key points which I think highlight particularly well how much further we have to go:

"...would President Ségolène Royal have got beyond being routinely referred to as a "glamorous mother of four"? Would President Hillary Clinton still be described as cold and calculating? Would Chancellor Merkel's leadership style still be characterised as one of "female modesty"? And would reporters be able to resist frequent comment on the clothing and hairstyles of these political leaders? Depressingly, the conventions that dominate political reporting seem to cling even more stubbornly to gender stereotypes than the political institutions themselves."

It is interesting, whats even more pointed here is the fact that the reasons why such issues still matter is because we let them matter. However, its not always true, there are pockets where leaders are simply leaders, not men not women, not black nor white, just someone who gets the job done. I think the president of Ireland, Mary McAleese is one such example or Helen Clark of New Zealand. Perhaps because they're not the leader of an all-powerful nation (e.g. America or even Germany) or of a Third World country (e.g. Liberia). And there's a long list of them, just check out Wikipedia under the headings of female heads of state or female heads of government--there's a long list.

I liked what Madeline Bunting went on to say, because it shows you how amazing women are and how savvy they are:

"But what makes the campaigns of both Royal, the socialist presidential candidate in France, and Clinton, bidding for the Democratic nomination in the US, so novel is how both these daughters of the feminist movement are deliberately using these stereotypes, pioneering a new way of women doing politics. Breaking away from a Thatcher model (adopted by Angela Merkel) of never explicitly drawing attention to the fact of one's sex, Royal and Clinton have put the fact that they are women and mothers at the centre of their campaigns. It is a fascinating experiment."

I like that rather than trying to completely ignore or, worse, trying to act in exactly an opposite manner, they have embraced the comments and taken ownership of them. Its a sign of maturity to accept what one is and work forwards from there.

At the end of the day, Bunting's summing up says it all:

"Being the first women to run for president offers a dramatic opportunity for a country to make a fresh start, a sharp break with the past. That is what thrust Michelle Bachelet into power as Chilean president a year ago. She was an icon of a new future for Chile, reconciled after its violent past and emerging from its entrenched social conservatism. Mary Robinson played something of a similar role when she became president of Ireland. Their elections transformed the image of their countries overnight. This is the big pitch of both Clinton and Royal, but there has to be a real hunger for that change - and in neither the US or France is that self-evident."


Now its just a time to wait and watch.

Friday, April 6, 2007

Music

I'm addicted to music. I listen to music all the time, literally. At work, my headphones are regularly plugged into my ears, I listen to the radio in the car and as I type right now, I am also listening. I find it soothing and it helps me focus. My taste in music varies according to mood, I confess I'm one of those people who can listen to the same song over and over again for hours (my roommate freshmen year will attest to that). Its so odd, I find when I reread/redo certain things, they have an accompanying soundtrack!

But what my blog today really ponders on is the quality that lyrics have and how they are a comment on us and on society.

I'm listening to a song which praises India. It is a typical patriotic tune, by this I mean the music has a soaring quality, makes you energised etc etc...I hope you get my drift. The lyrics are, however, what really get me. A professor of mine once talked about how Indians are patriotic to the idea of India, in the sense that they are not bound to the country because the leadership inspires loyalty but the idea that India represents (in a manner similar to Americans and the ideals of liberty, justice, etc.). This song is a perfect example of this quality. The first few lyrics read:

"Tere jaisa koi bhi nahin hai...mai gaya jahan bhi, bus teri yaad ki...sab se pyaari teri surat, pyaar hai bus tera, pyaar hi, ma tujhe salaam, ma tujhe salaam, amma tujhe salaam..."
[I apologise for the translation]: "there is no one comparable to you...wherever I sang, I always had you in my mind/memories...yours is the most beautiful countenance, I have love for only you, for you, mother greetings/peace to you, mother greetings/peace to you, Ma greetings/peace to you..."

Music is an integral part of society and it similar to art (!) reflects on the state of society in a way that is unique and very telling. Think of songs such as "God Bless America" I have to admit that patriotic songs and such like make for the most interesting study for me personally. For instance, the national anthem [we can safely say that national anthems are perhaps the most revealing about the image a country wishes to project] of Pakistan is in Farsi [Persian]? Explain that to me? What does that say about a nation that has never really identified with her Persian heritage? One that has carefully simulated an Arab/"Islamic" persona and a non-Indian one? Is it a throwback to the days when Persian was the court language before Urdu and Hindi? So many questions, rarely are there any answers on my part...and I apologize but this blog is a space for me to ponder my thoughts "out loud"

In truth, we have a sleuth of national songs, some of which aren't strictly patriotic [in the sense that they laud the country specifically] but have been ingrained into our minds as "Pakistani" songs. Perhaps the most well known and most beautiful songs is Iqbal's poem 'Lab pe Aati hai' [And here I really apologise to Dr. Iqbal for my butshering of his lyrics in translation]:

"Lab pe aati hai dua ban ke tamanna meri
[My desires come to my lips as prayers]

Zindagi shamma ki surat ho Khudaya meri
[that my life may be as a shining/guiding light, O God]

Door duniya ka mere dam se andhera ho jaiye
[that my life may keep darkness away from this world]

Har jaga mere chamakne sai ujala ho jaiye
[May my brightness light up all dark corners]

Ho mere dum se yohe mere watan ki zeenat
[May my actions bring my country admiration]

Jistara phool se hoti hai chaman ki zeenat
[As a flower brings magnificence to a garden]

Zindagi ho meri parwaane ki soorat ya rab
[that my life may be like that of a moth that loves light and flies into it, O God]

Ilm ki shama se ho mujko mohabat ya rab
[that I may love the light of knowledge, O God]

Ho mera kaam ghareebon ki himayat karna
[that my work may be the care of the poor]

Dardmandon se, Zaeefon se muhabbat karna
[and the care of the weak and elderly]

Mere Allah! Buraee se bachana mujhko
[O god!, save me from my sins]

Naik jo raah ho us rah pe chalana mujhko."
[And help me stay on the right path]

This poem was written prior to the formation of Pakistan and quite frankly is meant to be a song about children who are the hope of the future and not just of Pakistan but for any place any where. Its a beautiful sentiment nonetheless.

As I think of more Pakistani songs that are patriotic, they make me think of the similar ideals that are espoused by the Indian song I quoted earlier:
"sohni dharti, Allah rakhe, qadm qadm abaad tujhe, tere har aik zara hum ko apni jaan se pyaari, tere dum se shaan hamaari, tjuh se naam humara, jub tuk he yeh duniya baqi, hum dekhe azad"
["O wonderful land, may God keep you vibrant at every footstep, every part of you is dear to us, our magnificence comes from you, you make our name, till the end of this world, we will be free"]

Despite Pakistan's [or more strictly the government's] somewhat desperate desire to be 'other' than India, it can be said that we haven't really succeeded, not just in trivialities like music but our general culture and the many remnants of it that have little to do with Islam but everything to do with the Subcontinent and it keeps popping out, whether we are refering to traditional superstitions (e.g. women wearing kaali poth) or whether we are referring to the celebration of spring (basant).

National identity is not formed according to new propoganda alone, it is an ever continuous process and one that cannot be deleted and changed easily. Think of Pakistan as a 59 year case study in the futility of such plans.